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Tomato Gardening Tips for Organic Growers
Tomato Gardening

TOMATO GARDENING

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Green GardenHow Green Does Your Garden Grow?
By Linda Tagliaferro, Organic Farm Magazine

The myth is busted -- organic gardening doesn't mean reduced yields or plants plagued by blight. Here are some tips for giving your plants organic power!

Gardening the natural, organic way produces delectable, nutritious fruits and vegetables without the use of toxic fertilizers, pesticides or other chemicals. Many consumers buy organic to avoid inadvertently ingesting chemicals from their food. Others are willing to pay top dollar for organic foods because they believe them to be nutritionally superior. Gourmet chefs at increasing numbers of upscale restaurants also prefer serving the tantalizing tastes of organically grown foods to customers.

However, some people worry that cultivating an organic garden or farm won't be as productive as a conventional garden. But Becky Grube, professor of sustainable crop production at the University of New Hampshire, points out. "Yields in a well-managed organic garden will equal or surpass those in a conventional garden. Yields have more to do with good pest management and whether crops receive the nutrients they need than with whether the garden is organic or conventional.

You can take measures to help your organically raised plants flourish from seeds to full-grown, successful crops. Some organic farmers point out that the initial costs and labor involved in producing a thriving organic garden decrease considerably over time, as the land becomes more and more fertile through nature-friendly techniques

Feeding The Soil
First and foremost, organic gardeners feed the soil, which in turn gives nourishment to their crops and leads to a bountiful harvest. Healthy, fertile soil is alive with a veritable "army" of decomposing organisms, from slow, slithering earthworms to invisible microscopic creatures like soil bacteria and fungi. These hard-working creatures break down autumn leaves, spent vegetation and other organic matter into much needed nutrients that become available to seeds and plants as they grow.

When conventional gardeners rely on heavy doses of chemical fertilizers and poisonous pesticides, the soil can become a difficult place for these beneficial organisms to flourish. Toxic chemicals cause the tiny decomposers to die off and the soil consequently loses its vitality. This often results in gardeners using more and more chemicals in an effort to replenish the soil -- it becomes a vicious cycle. Harmful insects may develop a resistance to chemical pesticides, causing larger doses or additional chemicals to be used in an effort to stop pests from decimating crops.

In an organic garden, natural fertilizers and composted soil amendments provide actively decomposing matter that steadily feeds and builds up the soil over time. Healthy plants offer better resistance to voracious insects and natural pest management aids crops in fending them off.

Making Your Own Organic Compost
Your soil's decomposers need a steady supply of organic matter to keep the ground fertile. Adding homemade compost enriches soil and -- with the exception of labor -- it's free. That's because it's made from just about anything that was once alive and that would ordinarily be thrown away. You can fill your compost heap with kitchen waste, dead leaves, grass clippings and other organic matter that will rot down to fertile humus -- gold for your garden.

As opposed to commercial chemical fertilizers, natural compost functions as a slow-release type of soil enhancer. Rather than shocking the soil with a burst of chemical energy that eventually peters out, compost provides soil with a steady supply of the nutrients plants need throughout their growth.

Composted soil supports many types of helpful bacteria. Among these are beneficial microorganisms that produce their own natural substances to aid plants in their fight against diseases. Because composted soil is loose enough to "breathe," it retains the water and nutrients needed to support flourishing plants.

Adding activators to compost makes more nitrogen available to soil microorganisms -- they'll grow to larger populations. If your compost heap consists mostly of "brown" materials like wood chips or dead leaves, you should use either naturally occurring or commercial organic activators.

Natural activators include dried chicken manure, grass clippings, layers of comfrey or existing mature compost. Adding small amounts of soil to compost increases the amount of soil microbes. Seaweed may also be added; it contains many needed minerals and trace elements.

Commercial activators may contain dormant bacteria and fungi that proliferate to hasten the process of converting organic waste materials into fertile compost. Depending on the temperature and the time of year, compost can be ready in as little as four weeks (with activators) or it can take as long as several months. Your mature compost will be dark brown in color and will have the good, earthy smell of fertile soil.

Some organic gardeners recommend adding worms to speed things up. Worm composting , also called vermicomposting, allows you to create compost indoors or outdoors in closed bins all year long. Order composting worms from organic garden suppliers. Provide worms with food such as vegetable peels, tea leaves, coffee grounds or crushed egg shells. Worms also need moist bedding, such as shredded, moistened newspaper, added to one side of the compost bin. In a few months, the worms will eat through the paper and kitchen scraps. Their castings (waste) provide a highly nutritious base for plant growth.

Proper Planning
Once you have healthy soil, think about which plants you want to grow and when you want to grow them. Purchase organically grown seeds from reputable companies. Some mainstream catalogs carry organic seeds along with conventional varieties, but make sure you know what you're buying. Organic farmers steer clear of genetically engineered varieties and seeds treated with toxic chemicals. Non-hybrid (open-pollinated), organic seeds may improve with each generation if you save seeds from the hardiest of these plants.

You'll need to take into account climate and seasonal considerations. Try to buy organic seeds from companies based near you, and during your typical growing seasons. Native plants are adapted to your specific area and therefore will produce good results. Your local university extension service or local garden centers will have literature to help you decide what types of seeds will thrive in your area, given average temperatures and types of soil. Seed catalogs also contain helpful information about raising specific crops.

Some seeds can be sown directly into the soil, but many seeds can be started indoors or in a cold frame. Knowing your area's frost-free dates is of the utmost importance. Jacqueline A Ricotta PhD, associate professor and specialist in organic crop science at Delaware Valley College in Pennsylvania, suggests: "Every gardener should know the first frost-free date for planting and not get seeds and transplants in the ground too early. The soil has not warmed up enough and will result in your plants getting a slow start."

Several weeks before sowing your seeds, add compost to your soil and water the area. Some organic gardeners wait until weeds come up and then pull or hoe them, but it's best to leave these to decay into rich mulch for crops. Don't leave weeds long enough for them to go to seed or you will seed your garden with weeds.

Wise Watering
Healthy, composted soil contains large amounts of organic matter and has a great capacity to hold water, which encourages the growth of deep, vigorous root systems that firmly anchor crops.

Water plants thoroughly only as needed and make sure the deepest roots soak this up. Too frequent watering can be just as dangerous for plants as too little water. Don't water lightly every day- this encourages roots to remain close to the soil's surface, making them vulnerable to heat and dryness. Thorough watering encourages deeper, stronger root systems to form.

Never water during the hottest hours of the day. The heat may cause the water to evaporate before it reaches the roots, where the best absorption takes place. Water on leaves in midday sun can also scorch leaves, wilting them beyond repair. Soak plants slowly and gently, the way a soft rain would moisten your crops. In cold weather, water on leaves chills plants, leaving them vulnerable to disease. Never use a strong force of water, which leads to crusty layers on the top of the soil and creates a barrier to seedlings that are pushing upward as they grow.

Mulch is a wonderful thing. It insulates plants against heat and cold, and also reduces the need for water by holding back weeds and keeping moisture in the soil. In addition, mulching ensures aeration. You can mulch your garden with a layer of hay, dead leaves, shredded hardwood bark or straw. Organic mulch breaks down and eventually adds nutrients to the soil, so be wise about the type of mulch used because you can add detrimental amounts of a nutrient through mulch.

Fertilizing The Organic Way
Enhancing your organic garden with nutrient-rich compost makes crops stronger and more resistant to droughts and disease. As a result, you won't need to fertilize as often as you would a conventional garden.

Consider testing your soil to decide if it needs fertilizer. Remember that organic products differ considerably from synthetic, commercial brands. Organic fertilizers are derived from naturally occurring matter and need the action of microorganisms, which are plentiful in rich, organic soil, to make the nutrients available to your plants.

On the other hand, chemical fertilizers, when mixed with water, become immediately accessible to crops. Consequently, it's much easier to overfeed plants with these types, whereas organic products naturally release nutrients slowly and steadily for continued, vigorous plant growth.

You can prepare your own fertilizer in several ways. Make a "tea" of liquid manure by filling a bag made from strong, coarse fabric - like jute or hemp - with horse or sheep manure and tying it tightly. Attach firmly to a wooden plank and position over a barrel of water. (Make sure to cover so children and small animals are safe.) Soak the bag for about two weeks and then remove. The dark brown water is now liquid fertilizer. Before using, first water your soil and apply the liquid manure. You can also create liquid fertilizer from chopped-up dandelions or comfrey leaves. Place in a jute or hemp bag and cover with water for about three weeks.

Natural Pest Management
Healthy soil produces vigorous plants that are less likely to have problems with insect pests. However, if your crops are attacked by insects, organic methods like attracting beneficial insects and companion planting can help battle pest populations. Crop rotation is another important method in organic pest management. At the end of the growing season, rotate crops between fields or beds; the pests that thrive on those plants and over-winter inside the soil will find their food gone when they re-emerge.

Invite beneficial insects that prey on "bad bugs" by allotting 5 or 10 percent of your garden area to plants that attract them. These rules vary from state to state, but in general, keep your garden as diversified as possible to attract varying types of insect helpers.

Lacewings, known for their delicate, transparent wings, bear larvae that feed on pests like aphids, mites, and thrips. These voracious larvae can consume over 100 insect pests each day. Lure them to your yard with wild bergamot, sweet alyssum and English lavender. Syrphid flies produce larvae that feed on aphids and other pests as well. Praying mantids, spiders and braconid wasps are also allies in organic gardens.

Many "good bugs" relish plants such as those in the carrot and mint families, with clusters of tiny flowers that allow easy access to the nectar inside. Predatory insects also dine on pollen, so they seek out flat flowers, like those in the daisy family, which provide quick access to the pollen-filled centers. It's also a good idea to intersperse your vegetable crops with companion plants like parsley, flowering dill, fern-leaf yarrow and coriander to encourage even more beneficial insects to visit.

Flowers native to your area will also attract hardy insect predators. Check with you cooperative extension office to discover native flowers that thrive where you live.

Some plants, such as chamomile, nasturtiums and marigolds, naturally repel some types of pests. Nematodes shy away from marigolds because of their roots' slowly released natural chemicals.

Although some people worry that birds will eat their crops, these feathered friends can keep caterpillars, slugs, aphids and other garden nasties under control. If you provide birdhouses and baths, you may notice a decrease in the pest population.

For heavy caterpillar or worm problems on fruit trees and vegetables, consider Thuricide, a liquid concentrate made from Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), naturally occurring soil bacteria that are harmless to humans, pets, wildlife and beneficial insects.

You can also place non-toxic barriers between your plants and devouring insects. Many organic garden suppliers carry Tanglefoot Pest Barrier that prevents caterpillars, mites and other crawling insects from crawling up your shrubs, trees and vines.
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